"Riding the Magic Carpet" and other great surf booksHi guys. Apologies the journal hasn't come. Infact, it's unlikely it will now as it's all proving to much of a distant memory...
I've been surfing here in Brighton though and me and Will are planning a session at Hot Pipes tomorrow in fact! There's been a storm brewing all week and word is there's a swell coming! That is, if you can call ankle-deep slop a swell anyway!
I've been entertaing myself with some great surf books recently. Here's a few that I thouroughly recommend you try for youselves.
Riding the Magic Carpet
A Surfer's Odyssey to Find the Perfect Wave - this book has it all. Great places, waves and people just get the wander-lust pumping!
Eddie Would Go
The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero and Pioneer of Big Wave Surfing!
Fit to Surf
The Surfer's Guide to Strength and Conditioning.
Novels by Kem Nunn
All of these are good mainly with the lead charachters being loner surfers.
In Search of Captain Zero
Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road... this guy has a great website too. Alan Weisbecker He also sends through pretty cool emails if you sign up and I myself have shared dialogue with the guy... a true surfer at heart with a fantastic knack for story-telling.
Another by A.W:
Not a surf tale but one of the most original, laugh out load funny reads I've even had the pleasure to digest.
That'll do for now... hope you enjoy them.